Una passegiata in parma

During spring break I wanted to get off the beaten path, and did a trip to Parma and Reggio-Emilio on my own! I took a train in the morning, figuring I’d start in Reggio Emilio, and then take a 10 minute train to Parma. Both are in the Emilio-Romano region, which is essentially a lesser known Tuscany--green, historic, and good food. I vastly prefer Tuscany--it feels more rustic. It wasn’t my first time alone--I met CJ in Amsterdam before, and had to take a flight by myself. But it was very liberating to be on my own schedule.
I arrived late morning in Reggio, and wandered about, no map, to take it in. It has a surprisingly large Asian population in a country with few immigrants. The streets were littered with markets and paticcerie --pastry shops. I spent the day looking for an authentic Reggio restaurant and wandering through piazze. I stumbled onto one, and after asking for a menu (which they mistook for “bagno”, and quite kindly, gave me the bathroom key!), was told the kitchen was closed, but to try the place around the corner (in broken English…sigh).
I was the only person in the restaurant, but actually enjoyed myself thoroughly. My waiter doted on me once he discovered I spoke some Italian, and he watched TV at the other side of the room while I read and ate my delicious delicious pasta filled with proscuitto and dosed in cream. My meal included a free drink, and I asked for the local Lambrusco, and was brought half a bottle of it, along with some free bruschetta!! The farther South in Italy you go, the nicer people are, truly. After I told the owner and my waiter, watching soccer, that I loved my meal, they asked me if I’d take a coffee, and I said no, I was stuffed (it was true, I could have easily eaten that meal throughout the whole day). They instead brought me a shot of the best Limoncello I ever had. I left my waiter a small tip (not the normal custom) under my napkin, and promised to recommend it in the future.
After a sleepy train ride to Parma, I crossed a park, and the sunshine put me to sleep by a monument. Parma is an extremely affluent town, with very modest sights to see. After a bit of wandering in a beautiful church and admiring the pink marble Baptistery, I went in a ravenous search of Parma cheese and ham. Fun fact: “Parmesan” cheese means nothing--the famous cheese is Parmeggiano Reggiano (as in, of Parma and Reggio). It must be made in the 5 city areas close to Parma and Reggio Emilio, and will say “DOC”, similar to wine, to show its authenticity. It’s plastered on everything tasty here--even my garlic is DOC. With no salumneria in sight, I sighed and went to the grocery store for my food. No regrets--that parmesan is fantastic, and the ham (proscuitto di parma) was so different!